New Zealand Fashion Week has seen designers openly confront the industry’s footprint, but the conversation was less about government regulation and more about how businesses themselves can adapt.
Hosted by Mindful Fashion NZ, the panel discussion pointed to emissions, pollution, and exploitation as unresolved problems.
The central question was commercial as much as ethical: how can the domestic sector shift to sustainable practices without falling into fast fashion habits?
“This industry? It’s heartbreaking… A whole lot’s got to change,” said Untouched World founder Peri Drysdale.
Drysdale argued that the path forward lies in transparency and quality rather than short-term marketing claims. “Authenticity is the only thing that works. The public can see through greenwashing.” Her label uses renewable fabrics, including a new sugarcane-based textile, and designs clothing intended to endure. “You can wear beautiful clothing,” she said, “without hurting the environment.”
Other panellists reinforced the value of business models built around longevity. Auckland designer Rory William Docherty was direct: “We don’t need more fashion.” His brand avoids disposable trends, producing seasonless, classic pieces designed to last.
Emily Miller-Sharma of RUBY described efforts to connect customers more directly with the craft of clothing, selling patterns and fabric bundles to encourage DIY sewing. “They teach people how tricky making clothing can be,” she said, suggesting that appreciation for the work behind garments may help shift demand away from cheap, short-lived fashion.
Mindful Fashion NZ chief executive Jacinta FitzGerald highlighted both opportunities and limitations in current materials.
While recycled polyester is affordable and diverts waste, it is still fossil fuel-based and sheds microplastics. “Recycled polyester is a useful stepping-stone, but it’s not the end goal,” she said, urging investment in bio-based textiles and “bold innovation, not more disposability.”
France has recently introduced taxes and advertising bans on ultra-fast fashion platforms such as Shein and Temu. FitzGerald pointed instead to the domestic challenge of 52,000 tonnes of clothing heading to landfill each year, noting that New Zealand’s needs may be better met through industry-driven change.
While she called for “business models built on social and environmental responsibility, backed by strong policy,” the broader message from the panel leaned towards enterprise solutions and consumer responsibility rather than heavy-handed bans.